The Tuscan Villa That Wasn't

A St. Helena couple overlays a modern palette on an Italian villa to create a comfortable, contemporary ambience

It has become something of a cliché. California wine country residents vacation in
Tuscany, fall in love with the irregular rooflines and warm colors of the villages, and come home to build their own version in Northern California’s Mediterranean climate. The wine valleys are speckled with pseudo-Tuscan villas, some bearing old roof tiles shipped from Italy, others painted in eye-catching shades of ochre and terra-cotta that will need years of weather before they begin to fade into the landscape.

Jean-Marie and John Kelly, owners of a large parcel of land in the hills west of
St. Helena, also went to Italy and returned enchanted by that country’s village architecture. In building their paraphrase of Italian country style, however, they skipped the more obvious clichés and kitsch. Although the shapes of their residential complex certainly hearken back to Europe, an elegant palette of materials and refined details pay homage to the essentially Californian aesthetic of architects like Bernard Maybeck and William Turnbull.

The Kellys’ residence is perched on a narrow bench of land between sloping vineyards and a deep, thickly wooded ravine. Hardly more than three miles away, people are shopping for shoes and inspecting menus on St. Helena’s busy Main Street, but the Kellys inhabit a different world, where hawks float in the silent air and there isn’t another house in sight. Besides their buildings, the only sign of civilization is the neatly tended rows of merlot grapes that wind around the curving hillsides.

Working with John’s nephew Brendan Kelly and his wife Kerry Morgan, both architects, the Kellys conjured up buildings that embody the strength and tranquility of the setting. At first glance, the main part of the complex seems to be a single structure, but it is actually an assemblage of three units.

The first thing that grabs the eye is the four-story tower, as sturdy and imposing as a medieval fortress. From a ground-level wine-tasting room, a spiral staircase leads up to Jean-Marie’s painting studio, then to John’s office and, at the very top, to an open-air sleeping porch. Breathtaking views of the vineyards and the hillsides can be seen from each level.

The master bedroom and bath occupy the one-story building next door. From their private aerie, the Kellys walk down a few steps to a wide, trellis-shaded portico that runs along a rectangular building containing the kitchen, dining room, and library. A couple of hundred feet away, a guesthouse has two bedrooms, a sitting room/kitchen, and a low-ceilinged attic designed as a grandchildren’s play area.

Brendan Kelly and Kerry Morgan brought everything together by using a remarkably limited palette of materials. Every floor, inside and out, is either polished gray concrete or wood. Every wall, inside and out, is a warm gray stucco. The consistency of materials redefines the familiar term indoor/outdoor, erasing the boundary between interior and exterior textures. The stucco walls are interrupted by panels of redwood that reference the traditional look of sea air–weathered California barns. “I knew there was a way to abstract the Northern California barn buildings without relying on the historicism of Spanish and Italian architecture,” Brendan explains.

Although the individual rooms aren’t large they have an elegant grandeur, thanks to high ceilings, towering redwood-framed windows, and French doors. The expanses of glass are divided into tall rectangles with shallow transom windows at the top. The tall windows are protected from the searing Napa sun by the trellis, and the transoms can be opened to produce a constant flow of air.

Everything has been designed to emphasize the purity of the materials. In the kitchen, the venting is merely slots in the redwood ceiling without the discordant note of a metal grate. John didn’t want to look down from his office to a roof punctuated by what Brendan refers to as “the usual suburban armature” of metal vents and pipes. These functionalities are hidden, leaving only unmarred planes of cedar shingles.

For all the austerity of the materials, the Kelly residence feels neither cold nor industrial, thanks to Jean-Marie’s artistic sensitivity and hands-on involvement. “She’s the ideal client,” Brendan says affectionately. “To get the right color for the stucco, she added local dirt to the mixes until she got just the right color. Only when she had it just right did she give it to the plasterer.”

She also walked into the vineyards and picked grapes when it came time to choose paint for the kitchen cabinets. The hazy blue, she points out, is the exact color of a fully ripe merlot grape at harvest time.

Family antiques, many in honeyed shades of oak, are scattered throughout the rooms. In the bathroom, sterling silver sink fixtures have a warm glow to contrast with the honed concrete counters. In summer, the French doors swing open, and the house functions perfectly as an indoor-outdoor living space. In winter, Jean-Marie unrolls some antique Oriental rugs on the concrete floor and closes the transoms to add coziness. On a clear night, the lights of St. Helena twinkle companionably in the distance.

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